Learning to sew can be hard, however, it can also be extremely rewarding. Making garments from scratch gives a certain satisfaction that you will only know once it’s done. Being able to say ‘oh I made it’ when you receive a compliment about something you made just makes you walk that little bit taller and hold your head that little bit higher.
While making clothes from scratch can’t be a little daunting and also time-consuming it is well worth it when you have something unique, well-fitting, and of great quality. You might be able to wear that silk dress instead of settling for a cheap polyester dress that just doesn’t quite fit or feel the same.
There is a bunch of things you need when you start making your own clothes, some expensive, some not so expensive. Some you need, some you can do without. Below I have listed some things that I believe will make your experience a little bit easier and there for a little bit more enjoyable. I know we all don’t have a bottomless bank account to buy everything we need so I will share some ways you can also cut down on costs, let’s call them ‘spendy’ (expensive), and, ‘savey’ (cheap) for fun. I will also tell you if you really ‘need’ it or if it’s just nice to have.
Below is for basic sewing and garment construction. I will be adding a post for more advanced sewing and also for pattern drafting at a later date. This is a long post so make a nice cuppa.
Also, I have added a downloadable cheat sheet at the bottom if you want to take it shopping, I got your back.
So let’s begin.
Tools:
Sewing Machine
Do you absolutely need? – Yes, (unless you have time to hand sew)
Spendy
If you have progressed as a sewer and really enjoy it as a hobby I would definitely advise investing in a good sewing machine that comes with a warranty. It is also a bonus that you will have a brand new user manual. This is your bible, look after it.
Savey
When you are learning to sew, a second-hand machine can be a good thing. Think about it like a car, when your learning to drive it’s not nearly as bad when you dent or damage an old used car rather than a brand new one. You will break needles and probably do a bit of damage while your learning so search gumtree or check if any bodies Nan has an old machine they don’t use (just make sure its been oiled, youtube is great if you don’t know how) If it doesn’t have a manual, see if you can find it online to download, it will make your life a lot easier.
Sewing Machine Feet
Do you absolutely need? – Yes and No
You will need 3 basic feet to start with. You’re going to need your basic machine foot, you can’t sew without it, but don’t worry, this will come with the machine. It is also handy to have a regular zipper foot and then an invisible zipper foot. These three will get you through most projects with ease. There are a lot of fancy other feet but they are for another day.
Overlocker/Serger
Do you absolutely need? – No
So you do not absolutely need an overlocker as there are ways to finish seams without them. In fact these finished are actually more ‘high-end’ in some cases, however, they can take longer and can be harder to master. An overlocker just makes things easier.
The same points apply for spendy vs savey as your sewing machine. They both have their pros and cons. I need to stress again here – make sure if buying second hand the machine is serviced and at the very least, oiled.
Iron
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
You need to press your garment as you are sewing, it will sit nicer on the body and look less ‘homemade’ over all. It will also make the next steps in sewing the garment easier.
Spendy
I was recently just given a brand new Tefal Freemove iron for christmas (yes I asked for an iron for Christmas) and its a game-changer. It’s cordless which makes pressing and ironing so much easier. It also doubles as a cordless steamer.
Savey
Previously I had mums old iron. I can’t sugarcoat it, it was a piece crap. I had burned so much stuff to it that it was pretty damn useless. It was only useable with a press cloth but it got me through.
Ironing Board
Do you absolutely need? – No
Spendy
Ironing boards are under rated. Something stury and big will make your life eaiser when pressing and finishing garments. You can even buy pretty covers to match your sewing room (or loungeroom decor)
Savey
If you don’t have the space for an iron board a folded sheet with a towel underneath on the dining table or kitchen bench will do the same-ish job.
Ironing Cloth & Pressing Tools
Do you absolutely need? – No
Spendy
You can buy fancy pressing clothes and tailors hams that will make your life easier and protect your delicate fabrics.
Savey
A scrap piece of cotton with hemmed edges can be a pressing cloth. Tailors hams are a little harder to save on unless you make your own.
Mannequin/Dress Form
Do you absolutely need? – No, you can use your own body! Amazing right.
If you would like to work on a dress form, firstly decide if you want to have a fixed size dress form or an adjustable dress form. Personally, I have a fixed dress form purely because I haven’t seen an adjustable one that I like aesthetically.
Spendy
You can purchase adjustable dress forms online and in-store brand new, however, these can be costly and not something you absolutely need when learning to sew. Some have removable arms or legs. It depends on the garments you will be making that will help you decide which to buy.
Savey
Check gumtree or other second-hand resources to find a dressform second-hand. I have 2 that I picked up on gumtree for under $50 and they work just fine. Just be sure to check the size is correct before you buy.
Stock your sewing case/box:
Sewing Box
Do you absolutely need? – Yes, but you just need something to put your stuff in.
Spendy
Fabric shops usually have fancy sewing boxes with all the compartments and fancy bits.
Savey
You really don’t need to spend much here if you don’t want to. Just use an old container or pencil case, anything to keep all your bits and pieces together.
Scissors
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
Spendy
Worth investing in a good pair of fabric scissors. Do not cut anything but fabric with these scissors as it can cause the blades to go blunt prematurely. If you can afford a rotary cutter and cutting mat, these are worth buying also as they can make cutting your garments out a lot easier and more accurate. You will still need good scissors though.
Savey
You can buy cheaper scissors however they will need replacing more often and will probably end up costing you more in the long run.
Clippers/Snips
Do you absolutely need? – No
You can get away with just using your scissors but having a little pair of snips will make things easier.
Spendy vs Savey is the same as above, just whether you want to outlay cost up front or over time.
Seam Ripper
Do you absolutely need? – Yes, you’re learning to sew, you will make mistakes, and even when you aren’t learning to sew you still make mistakes haha.
Spendy vs Savey, again is the same as above, just whether you want to outlay cost up front or over time.
Tailors Tape Measure & Long Ruler
Do you absolutely need? – Yes and No
Spendy
It may be tempting to buy a cheap tape measure but spend the extra few dollars and get one that is soft with metric on one side and imperial on the other. Again, it will make your life easier.
Having a long ruler is handing for cutting bias binds and laying up fabric.
Savey
You can pick up cheap tape measures in discount stores for a few $$ and you can forgo buying a ruler if you won’t be doing any pattern making.
Pins
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
Spendy
A bit like scissors, you want your pins to be nice and sharp, spend a few extra $$ here and buy the good ones. It will prevent your fabric from snagging.
Savey
Try to avoid cheap pins, they will go blunt and be hard to get into the fabric which will probably result in damage, like thread pulls and needle holes, not what you want.
Long Tweezers
Do you absolutely need? – No (but its really hard to thread an overlocker without them)
Spendy
You can buy them in sewing stores or the chemist.
Savey
You can use your bathroom tweezers to get the job done but they aren’t as long so it will be harder
Hand Sewing Needles
Do you absolutely need? – Yes (if you are going to be sewing buttons and trims)
Spendy and savey are the same as pins, you’re best spending a little extra to ensure you have nice sharp needles that won’t damage your project
Extra Machine Needles
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
Spendy vs Savey
Always have a spare as they will break from time to time, especially when you are learning to sew. Ensure you get the correct size for your machine and the material that you are sewing. Cheap universal needles can be used but should be kept for practice.
Dress Makers Chalk
Do you absolutely need? – No
Spendy vs Savey
Dressmakers chalk is good because it can be washed or brushed off the fabric. Other pens and markers can be used however to be sure to mark the garment in a way so that it won’t be seen when finished.
Sewing Machine Oil
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
Spendy
Fabric shops and sewing machine shops will stock this, or even check online. Your manuals will tell you what is best to use or where to buy. New machines will also come with a small bottle.
Savey
Please do not use anything other than specialty sewing machine oil on your machines. This is an area you don’t want to skimp out on because you can really damage your machines. Back to a car analogy, you wouldn’t put cooking oil in your car, don’t put it in your machines.
Materials to have on hand:
Threads
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
It’s handy to have a few basic colours on hand. You will build up a collection over time.
Spendy vs Savey
Buy the good thread from the fabric shop, it’s the glue to your garment. You can buy cheaper threads but they usually break and can be more hassle than the few $$ saved is worth.
Zippers
Do you absolutely need? – No
It’s just useful to have some on hand for when you want to sew up a toile of something before you purchase real fabric and trims.
Spendy vs Savey
No need for good zippers here, just rip them from old clothes before you throw them out. Save the spendy for nice colour matched zippers on your final projects
Calico/Toile Fabric
Do you absolutely need? – Yes
When learning to sew, it is ALWAYS a good idea to make up a toile of your project before cutting into your actual fabric. It’s rare that something will fit exactly the way that you want the first time and it’s also helpful to practice how a garment is sewn together. Make your mistakes on the toile.
Toile; noun:
1. an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
2. a translucent linen or cotton fabric, used for making clothes
Spendy
You can buy fabric by the metre at fabric stores in a similar weight to your real fabric.
Savey
Old bed sheets and linen can be used, or fabric from thrift shops. Just try to use something of similar weight and drape to your actual fabric.
So that is my basic list of items to have on hand to start your sewing journey of learning to sew. As you can see you can invest as much or as little as you can afford.
To print the handy cheat sheet just click the download button below.
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