How to: Create Even Neat Gathers

There are more than a couple of At The Seams patterns that require the skill of gathering. The Alexandra Shift Dress, the Marilyn Mini Skirt, the Emily Tie Shoulder Dress, and the Amelia Puff Sleeve Dress just to name a few.

So I thought a more in-depth tutorial would be helpful for those of you that are new to sewing or haven’t used this technique before. The process is actually quite simple and easy. Once you master this skill and become confident in gathers you will want to gather anything and everything.

Follow along below to learn how to easily gather fabric using a few basic sewing items.

Tools

• sewing machine
• pins
• iron

Materials

• fabric (either your garment or just scrap fabric to practice with)
• matching cotton thread
• contrast cotton thread

Step 1 

Thread your machine with the contrast thread. You can use a matching thread but I find that the contrast thread is easier to remove later on.

Step 2 

Adjust your machine to the longest stitch length, this is commonly about 5.

Step 3 

Sitch 2 rows of stitching across the edge that needs to be gathered. Leave a long tread tail at each end.

The 2 rows of stitching should be placed on either side of the actual seam allowance stitch line. This ensures the gathering thread can easily be removed and the gathers will be straight and neat.

For example, if your garment has a 10mm seam allowance, then the 1st row of stitching will be 5mm from the edge, and the 2nd row of stitching will be 15mm from the edge.

Step 4 

At one end of the gathering stitch, tie the tails together to secure one end.

If preferred you can backstitch at one end – however, this is harder to unpick later when you need to remove the gathering threads.

Step 5 

Now pin the piece that needs to be gathered to the flat piece. Pin at each end and the center. This will ensure your gathers are evenly spread and not too much to one side

Step 6 

Now gather the fabric to fit the ungathered piece by pulling the top 2 threads and sliding the fabric along.

Video for Steps 4-6 below

Step 7 

Evenly spread the gathers along the fabric and pin it in place.

Step 8 

Then adjust your machine back to a standard 2.2-2.5 stitch length.

Step 9 

Stitch the seam closed.

Step 10

Remove the gathering threads by cutting off the knot, then pull the threads as if you were creating more gathers.

The threads should pull out easily, remember to remove the front and back threads.

Step 11

The seam can now be overlocked if required.

Step 12

Press the seam allowance away from the gathers taking care not to over-press the gathered side of the fabric.

Another basic sewing skill you might need to master is sewing a French seam or this quick and easy way of sewing a circular hem.

Also, check out our Esty store for some great shapes to practice the gathering technique on.

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